Tuesday , January 22 2019


Precise tailoring emphasizes a lightness of fabric: the Salvatore Ferragamo s/s 2014 collection has a dual origin embodied by purity and sensuality. The minimalist lines and perfect structures are softened by the quest for volume; the detailing is multiplied to create new equilibriums. The result is a series of opposing effects – straight lines and curves, light contracted by shade and density by transparency.

Lines are well defined: precise jackets and trousers; generous and geometric coats complemented by form fitting belts and bodices; cut-off blazers and little volumetric blousons that reveal and highlight the waist. The silhouette is ethereal and sensual: Basque laces dot the back of the Spencer and embellish the field jacket; bands are fastened around the waist; the back of a large trench coat appears to dematerialise before your eyes. An experiment in which rigour is crossed with seduction: brassieres are inserted into tops and shirts; large, functional pockets are applied to trousers.

The strength/lightness duality, epitome of the Ferragamo woman, becomes fluid in the dresses which open out into flares, pleats and linear drapes. The knitwear is delicate and seductive: the body is the centre of attention, enhanced, revered. The transparent tops reveal the bust or uncover the hips.

The materials are still and weightless: dry wool and cottons with innovative finishes. Thin threads of silk act as counterpoints.

The colour palette is neutral with sudden flashes of light in the form of: beige, butter, sand, flesh, peony pink, nettle green.

The accessories, sculpted and eye-catching, are distinctive. The precious materials become hyperbolic in the quest for a 3D effect: little studs and eyelets are applied to hand-painted snakeskin creating tactile degradè effects. Square shapes and sinuous heels are focal points of the shoes; the light and shade effects both reveal and entrap: open toes, bands, wide straps fastened with buckles on the ankle. The bags are minimalist in design; metal details emphasise the profile or act as mechanical gears to extend the shoulder bags. The bijoux is also a paean to pragmatism with metallic hi-tech wires, cables and plugs reconfigured as jewellery.

11_MNT_8390-salvatore-ferragamo-www.collection-magazine.com 13B_NDR_5598-salvatore-ferragamo-www.collection-magazine.com 12B_NDR_5580-salvatore-ferragamo-www.collection-magazine.com 26_MNT_8626-salvatore-ferragamo-www.collection-magazine.com 10_MNT_8377-salvatore-ferragamo-www.collection-magazine.com 30_MNT_8697-salvatore-ferragamo-www.collection-magazine.com 33B_MM3_74980-salvatore-ferragamo-www.collection-magazine.com

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