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Strength: a sign of simplicity and construction, of composed sensuality. For Ferragamo’s Fall Winter 2013-14 collection, Massimiliano Giornetti conceives a collection filled with architectural neatness. The essence of shapes reveal the precision of cut, the consistency of texture and depth of the design. The exceptional craftsmanship of the Florentine House traces a path, marking the skin of the dress blended with its DNA, both pervasive and silent.
The figure is sculpted and springs from the firm and sharp shoulder line. Modern silhouettes are created by moving, sliding and layering, highlighted by the geometric progression of patterns and by overlaying, real or implied by nets.
The body is slightly perceived through the assertive nonchalance of oversized outfits. The tailoring is streamlined in constructions that boast the accuracy of blueprints. Masculine inspired coats fold with fast and basic movement. The effects of overlapping result in a hybrid of technical performance and a taste for fine tailoring, while metallic details enhance the waistline with a hard-edge of rising light.
The dualism between severity and lightness define the woman of Ferragamo, who acquires strength in her search for virtuosity, aligned with an expression of true craftsmanship and knowhow. Short dresses worn over impalpable scoop neck tops move, fold and turn into one seem-less piece, drawing a shifting outline around the body. Zippers create an imaginary path through the seams as ‘scars’.
Researching a dynamic balance, the elimination of the unnecessary emphasizes the design. Textures and patterns are amplified: masculine inspired pinstriped suits, geometric prints, nets, netted marquetry and PVC inserts provide each element with a feeling of modular depth. Fabric coated metallic details soften the shine of embroideries evolving them into a sequence of external signs.
The fabrics are robust and created by a performance of a technical touch and a voluptuous and tactile approach. Dry silk wool, hand line nylon on a pony-like wool, paired with luxurious pony, alpaca, mohair and beaver fur. The color palette is reductionist: grey, white, blue and black.
The accessories present a graphic and sensual tone. Recurrent is the tying gesture as it cages and seduces: shoes, boots, pointy sandals and high heels. PVC details, patent leather and metallic outlines underline openings and cuts completing these amplified shapes. The bags have clean, sculpted silhouettes, soft and round or firmed and squared as small vanity or camera cases. Contradicting the strictness of the collection, white and yellow gold charms, applied on thin necklaces and bracelets, gather around wrists and hug necks. The unbalanced but seductively vital flash.
