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Precise tailoring emphasizes a lightness of fabric: the Salvatore Ferragamo s/s 2014 collection has a dual origin embodied by purity and sensuality. The minimalist lines and perfect structures are softened by the quest for volume; the detailing is multiplied to create new equilibriums. The result is a series of opposing effects – straight lines and curves, light contracted by shade and density by transparency.
Lines are well defined: precise jackets and trousers; generous and geometric coats complemented by form fitting belts and bodices; cut-off blazers and little volumetric blousons that reveal and highlight the waist. The silhouette is ethereal and sensual: Basque laces dot the back of the Spencer and embellish the field jacket; bands are fastened around the waist; the back of a large trench coat appears to dematerialise before your eyes. An experiment in which rigour is crossed with seduction: brassieres are inserted into tops and shirts; large, functional pockets are applied to trousers.
The strength/lightness duality, epitome of the Ferragamo woman, becomes fluid in the dresses which open out into flares, pleats and linear drapes. The knitwear is delicate and seductive: the body is the centre of attention, enhanced, revered. The transparent tops reveal the bust or uncover the hips.
The materials are still and weightless: dry wool and cottons with innovative finishes. Thin threads of silk act as counterpoints.
The colour palette is neutral with sudden flashes of light in the form of: beige, butter, sand, flesh, peony pink, nettle green.
The accessories, sculpted and eye-catching, are distinctive. The precious materials become hyperbolic in the quest for a 3D effect: little studs and eyelets are applied to hand-painted snakeskin creating tactile degradè effects. Square shapes and sinuous heels are focal points of the shoes; the light and shade effects both reveal and entrap: open toes, bands, wide straps fastened with buckles on the ankle. The bags are minimalist in design; metal details emphasise the profile or act as mechanical gears to extend the shoulder bags. The bijoux is also a paean to pragmatism with metallic hi-tech wires, cables and plugs reconfigured as jewellery.
