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With the introduction of the new GMT Guilloche, Glashütte-based manufacture Moritz Grossmann has redefined the category of travel watches, often defined by its complications and robustness, placing equal emphasis on a highly practical dual-time function and the art of hand-guilloché. Limited to a mere eight pieces per dial colour, this release is a statement of exclusivity and traditional craftsmanship aimed squarely at the connoisseur collector.
The most immediate distinction of the new GMT Guilloche lies in its dial, where Moritz Grossmann has equipped two versions with solid silver, hand-guillochéd bases in a choice of sophisticated matte finishes: a deep green evocative of “wide meadows and hidden coves” and a warm, characterful orange reminiscent of a “setting sun.”
For the trade audience, the value here is in the execution. The guilloché pattern is not stamped but engraved using a traditional rose-engine lathe, a process entirely dependent on the skill of the master guillocheur. The requirement for constant repositioning and pressure application results in ultra-thin grooves that are subsequently polished with a diamond tool to achieve a captivating play of light. This level of dial work, often reserved for special pieces, is a core feature of these production models, significantly elevating their perceived value and artistic merit.
The hand-finishing extends to the hands, the orange-dial variant features polished steel lance-shaped hands, while the green model is paired with blued steel hands, a subtle yet deliberate choice highlighting the attention to cohesive aesthetic design.
Beyond its beauty, the GMT Guilloche houses a thoughtfully engineered dual-time function. The local time is displayed centrally with a small seconds at 6 o’clock. The second time zone is indicated by a 24-hour scale on the flange and a discreet, arrow-tipped hand that circles the dial’s periphery, providing an instant day/night reading for the reference zone.
A separate crown at 10 o’clock allows the GMT hand to be advanced or retarded in one-hour increments via a ratchet system, a highly practical feature for frequent travellers crossing time zones. Crucially, this adjustment does not affect the primary timekeeping nor stop the seconds hand, preserving the accuracy of the central time.
Powering the watch is the in-house, manually-wound Calibre 100.8, a movement that represents the mastery of Glashütte watchmaking art. Visible through the sapphire case back, it presents a symphony of traditional finishing:
A untreated German silver 2/3 plate with raised gold chatons.
A hand-engraved, cantilevered balance cock with a Grossmann micrometer screw.
The brand’s distinctive Grossmann ratchet and a separately removable winding mechanism with a pusher to start the movement.
The integration of the GMT function is achieved elegantly on the dial side, driven from the centre hour wheel through a series of gears to the 24-hour ring, demonstrating a complex solution packaged with typical Grossmann finesse.
With a 41mm stainless steel case and limited to just eight pieces per colour, the Moritz Grossmann GMT Guilloche is not a volume play, it is a highly focused product that reinforces the brand’s position at the apex of German fine watchmaking. It answers a call from collectors for unique, artisanal pieces that offer genuine utility without compromising on craftsmanship.
For retailers, this watch represents a rich portfolio, an object of desire that drives brand prestige and attracts clients seeking rarity and undisputed horological integrity. In a crowded segment, the GMT Guilloche stands apart by proving that a travel watch can be as much a piece of moving art as it is a tool for global navigation.
Technical Highlights:
Movement: Manufacture Calibre 100.8, manual-wind
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, second time zone with day/night indicator
Case: 41.0mm stainless steel
Dial: Solid silver, hand-guilloché in green or orange
Limited Edition: 8 pieces per dial colour
Strap: Black hand-stitched alligator leather
