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In the world of watchmaking, the retrograde indications remain something of a rarity, a complication that demands not only technical precision but a philosophical commitment to rethinking how time is displayed. For Maurice Lacroix, however, it has become a signature. For over 25 years, the Saignelégier-based Manufacture has quietly cultivated an expertise in this arcane art, and with the release of the 1975 Master Grand Date Retrograde, they remind us why they remain one of its most compelling proponents.
This latest addition to the Masterpiece collection marks the 26th calibre to emerge from the brand’s in-house development programme. But more than a numerical milestone, the ML302 movement at the heart of this watch represents a studied meditation on legibility, architecture, and the theatre of mechanical timekeeping.
At first glance, the 1975 Master Grand Date Retrograde presents a dial of remarkable clarity, a true achievement in itself given the complexity housed beneath. The upper register is dominated by a grand date display, its twin discs fully exposed to reveal the mechanism at work. It is a subtle nod to transparency, allowing the wearer to witness the daily ballet of numerals aligning in perfect synchrony.
Below, the retrograde day indication arcs across the lower half of the dial. A blued hand traces its weekly journey from Monday to Sunday, sweeping rightward before snapping back to its origin as the cycle resets. The track itself is fashioned from sapphire crystal, rendered impossibly thin to preserve visibility of the movement beneath. It is a detail that speaks volumes about the technical ambition of Maurice Lacroix, working with shallow sections of sapphire is notoriously unforgiving, but the result is a dial that breathes, layered with depth and light.
Visually, the 1975 Master Grand Date Retrograde is a study in contrasts. The mainplate, visible from the front, has been sandblasted and treated with black rhodium, providing a darkened stage upon which the rhodium-finished trait tiré bridges perform. These bridges, carefully refined during development for thickness and symmetry, frame the indications with a kind of industrial elegance.
The trapezoidal hour and minute hands, faceted and rhodium-coated, are filled with white Super-LumiNova, ensuring readability without compromising the watch’s restrained aesthetic. And then there is the crystal, a generous box sapphire that not only protects but invites. Viewed from the side, it reveals a stratified world of angles, textures, and mechanical processes, each level contributing to a cohesive whole that rewards prolonged observation.
Turning the watch over, the exhibition caseback offers a view of the automatic ML302 calibre. Decorated with Côtes de Genève, perlage, and colimaçon finishes, it is a movement that honours tradition while serving modern functionality. The skeletonised rotor, adorned with trait tiré and colimaçon, continues the visual language established on the dial side.
The 42mm stainless steel case, with its alternating brushed and polished surfaces, provides a robust yet refined housing for this mechanical complexity. Water-resistant to 5 ATM and fitted with correctors for the date and day, it is designed for daily wear.
Stephane Waser, Managing Director of Maurice Lacroix, frames the release within the brand’s broader trajectory: “For more than 25 years, we have created models equipped with retrograde indications, a rare complication but one that has become a signature of our brand. On this occasion, we have chosen to unite a retrograde day display with a grand date complication, another speciality of our Maison”. He continues: “We have housed the movement within our 1975 model—a classical design encompassing traditional lines and featuring a retro-modern box sapphire crystal. Skilfully crafted within our Manufacture in Saignelégier, this watch delivers accessible excellence, respects our legacy, and provides an insight into our vision for the future”.
The 1975 Master Grand Date Retrograde occupies a compelling space in the market and offers not just the prestige of a Manufacture movement and the intrigue of dual complications, but a tangible connection to a house that has spent half a century refining its craft. For collectors and professionals who appreciate the nuance of independent Swiss watchmaking, it represents a thoughtful addition to the canon and a reminder that sometimes, the most forward-looking statements are made by looking back.
The watch is presented on a black calf leather strap with alligator embossing, complete with Maurice Lacroix’s Easy Strap Exchange system for effortless adaptation. It is, in every sense, a watch built for those who understand that time is not merely measured, but experienced.
