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There’s heritage, and then there’s touch. In over two decades of covering this industry, I’ve seen brands stretch the definition of “anniversary edition” to its absolute breaking point. A new dial color, a different rotor, we’ve all written that press release a hundred times. But every so often, Glashütte reminds us why they do things differently.
Grossmann Uhren GmbH dropped the final special edition for what is turning out to be a very significant year, the 200th birthday of Moritz Grossmann himself. And with the new TEFNUT Silver-Plated by Friction, I have to say, they’ve saved the best for last.
Let’s start with the obvious, because it’s worth discussing. You’ve seen green dials, I’ve reviewed more than I can count, but this is not that. This is a fresh, almost literary shade of green applied to a dial that is technically a relic of the 19th century. The “silver-plated by friction” technique is exactly what it sounds like, a hand-applied paste of silver powder, salt, cream of tartar, and water, rubbed into the brass with a brush until it forms that velvety, matte, grained texture.
In an era of CNC perfection, this is refreshingly human. The green numerals, the historic 1875 ‘M. GROSSMANN’ logo, and the minute scale sit on top of this texture. The contrast between the matte silver base and the glossy green printing is subtle, but it creates a depth you simply cannot replicate with a lacquered dial.
And yes, those lance-shaped hands are still made in-house, and still finished by hand. At this price point? That is becoming rarer by the season.
For the collectors keeping score at home, here is the real headline, The TEFNUT is finally available in yellow gold! For years, this model has lived in the white gold and steel lanes, the anniversary changes that, and now we have two options, a warm yellow gold case or the cooler white gold version. Both measure in at a tasteful, classic diameter, lean, elegant, and wearing perfectly flat on the wrist.
Why does the yellow gold matter? Because it feels historically correct. The founders of Glashütte, Grossmann, Assmann, and Lange, worked in precious metals that had warmth. A white gold TEFNUT is a modern gentleman’s watch. The yellow gold version? That is a period piece that never actually went out of style.
Open the caseback, and you are greeted by the manual-wind calibre 102.1, at just 4mm tall, this movement is a masterclass in architectural restraint. There is the classic pillar construction, the 3/5 plate, the raised chatons, and that unmistakable stepped balance cock with the Grossmann micrometer screw, a direct, unbroken line to Moritz Grossmann’s original workshop drawings.
This is not a “vintage-inspired” movement that hides modern CNC under a perlage finish. This is a movement built on historical principles, executed with modern precision. The ‘1826’ engraving on the balance cock is a nice touch. It is discreet, personal, and doesn’t scream for attention.
Now, speaking to our professional audience, this special edition is limited to twelve pieces per metal. Twelve in yellow gold, and twelve in white gold. That is it.
For the TEFNUT, a core model that has built a loyal following for its understatement, to drop a run this small, in a fresh colorway, with a premiere metal option (yellow gold), on a bicentenary year? The arithmetic writes itself. These will not sit in display cases, they debuted on 29 April 2026. My advice to your clients? If they have a relationship with the manufactory or an authorized partner, they should make their interest known yesterday.
We spend a lot of time talking about “soul” in watchmaking. Most of the time, it is marketing. But Moritz Grossmann genuinely operates in a rare space, one of the few manufactures that masters every detail of the old craft while breathing new life into it.
The TEFNUT Silver-Plated by Friction does not try to be a sports watch or a complication monster. It is simply a beautiful, technically serious dress watch that happens to carry 200 years of weight on its silver-plated shoulders.
